Food Artisans of the Okanagan: Your guide to the best locally crafted fare

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Entries in Misc food reports (9)

Thursday
Nov052015

Maclean's Magazine article: The world's finest avant-garde chefs descend on Alberta and find an underrated food wonderland

When some of the world's best chefs arrived in Alberta for Cook It Raw, the annual atelier of culinary creativity led by Alessandro Porcelli, I went along for the ride.

First there was the gathering of Alberta chefs in Lac La Biche, 2.5 hours northeast of Edmonton. There chefs who only get to interact in quasi-competition-style events and fundraisers got to camp together, fish, cook, and eat for four days without the distractions and obligations of their harried professional lives.

Connie DeSousa (co-chef / co-owner CHARCUT Roast House and Cam Dobranksi, chef, owner Brasserie Kensington, Kensington Wine Bar and Container Bar, with bison legSmoking meat and fish in Lac La Biche at Violet Cardinal's land on the Beaver Lake Cree Nation

In October, the troupe of chefs in Porcelli's orbit arrived to add some Michelin-star sparkle and international attention to the exercise. There was another camping trip, this time up in Kananaskis Country, in a WiFi free backcountry zone. It was like an episode of "So You Want to be a Canadian" (not a real show), with canoeing, fishing, moose- and bear-spotting, foraging, and lots of beers around late-night campfires. They also did some serious work, building up the seven dishes that they would reveal for a big media event on Saturday night in the SAIT professional teaching kitchens, and then again to the public on Sunday afternoon at Rouge Restaurant in Calgary.

Canoeing at Upper Kananaskis Lake, AlbertaTeam Root Vegetable presents their dish-in-progress at Mount Engadine Lodge, Kananaskis, Alberta

Team Red Fife's final dish at the Saturday night presentation at SAIT, Calgary

Honey-cured trout, Team Honey, final dish presenation at SAIT, CalgarySaskatoon dessert in a birch log, Team Saskatoon, SAIT, CalgaryL -> R Alessandro Porcelli, Blair Lebsack (RGE RD restaurant Edmonton) and Cam Dobranski, Jp McMahon, Aniar restaurant Galway, Ireland at SAIT Calgary

Here's the story (online as of October 30, 2015): http://www.macleans.ca/culture/the-worlds-finest-chefs-discover-alberta-food/

Appears in the November 9, 2015 print edition of the magazine.

Thursday
Jul182013

Cool new project: Foodgarage Project in Red Deer, Alberta

Last week, I had a long conversation with Rene Michelak, of Rethink Red Deer. He's involved in many sustainability projects, and one in particular is The Food Garage Project. It's a four-season food production shed / garage in his backyard. The idea is to experiment with how much food an urbanite can produce, even in a northern city with six solid months of below-zero Celsius, such as in Red Deer, Alberta. And it's part of his home's permaculture design, food forest, and year-round fresh food producing garage.

Here's the short video from The Food Garage website.

 

The Food Garage Project was also recently featured on CKUA Radio's ArtBeat, and the segment starts at 41 minutes. You can just zoom ahead to that portion. They are currently raising money on Indiegogo to build a prototype that produces renewable energy for 4-season food growing to feed a family of 4 for a year... forever.

Help spread the word about The Food Garage Project, and even be a part of the capital campaign if you can.

 

Thursday
Jul042013

Mexico's Ruta del Vino, Ensenada / Guadalupe Valley, Baja California North

 Last November, Mike and I did our second road-trip from Alberta to Mexico. Along the way, we had a fantastic mini-adventure in Ensenada and the Guadalupe Valley. Marcello Di Cintio had tipped me off about a San Diego chef, Jay Porter, who blogs about the food and wine across the Mexican border in TJ and Ensenada. We were planning to stop for a couple of days in Ensenada, even though we were heading even further south, to Southern Baja. (It is a long drive.) Anyway, Jay gave me lists and lists of wineries and restaurants, only a few of which were open in mid-November -- which we discovered was off-season for many restaurants and wineries. Nevermind. What we did experience was incredible. We're already planning a return trip.

Here's an article I wrote for City Palate Calgary, for the May / June 2013 "Wine Issue". I've slightly re-edited it and have added in a bunch of my own photos.

 

A Mexican Wine Adventure

My husband Mike and I might have been delirious, what with over 3000-kilometres of highway driving, and two border crossings under our belt in just five days. There was also the adrenaline rush of navigating through Tijuana earlier that morning. (For the record, this infamous Mexican border city that inspires concerned looks from friends and strangers now feels safer and is definitely hipper than many parts of California.) On the highway south of Tijuana, the humidity of the Pacific air was softening the lines on our faces as we cranked up the radio and blared polka-like Norteño music from our truck’s speakers. Driving to Mexico in November in search of vitamin D, fish tacos and The Baja Wine Route, in particular, was starting to make a whole lot of sense.

I had picked up on some rumblings along the foodie grapevines that Mexican wine had been improving dramatically in the past several years. As it happened, Mexico’s largest and oldest winery region, the fertile Guadalupe Valley, was less than 20 minutes inland from the port city of Ensenada, in Northern Baja California. And the helpful visitor information agent in Ensenada was more than happy to provide us with a maps and winery and dining recommendations. We learned that the Guadalupe Valley —home to 50-some wineries and restaurants along a 24-kilometer loop —was the heart of Baja’s Ruta del Vino. Along with the wine culture, there was a farm-to-table food movement sweeping over the area thanks to a few revolutionary chefs pushing the idea of a North Baja cuisine.

Following our new, free maps, we turned off Highway 1 and drove up into rolling hills of ochre-red soil strewn with large white granite boulders among cacti along Highway 3. As we crested a hill about 15 minutes into the drive, tidy square farms of green field vegetables interspersed with silver-green olive groves sprawled out in front of us. Vineyards, somewhat less uniformly, crept up the hillsides. Had I not been driving, I would have clapped in sheer glee at the gastronomic potential beyond the windshield.

We’d aimed high for lodgings for our first two nights in Mexico. I’d seen photos of the brand new Hotel Endémico on hipster, designy Websites that gushed about its off-the-beaten-path luxury. As we approached, we saw the strangely wonderful private casitas that were cantilevered out over granite-bolder-studded hills, newly planted vineyards and the Guadalupe Valley beyond.

Before we got too cozy at Hotel Endémico, we needed sustenance. Calgarian travel and food writer Marcello Di Cintio had suggested I contact Jay Porter, San Diego chef and blogging evangelist about the North Baja’s food and wine scene. Porter told me he’d just been to the Guadalupe Valley tweaking his restaurant’s house olive oil, made by Rancho Cortés, a farmstead cheesery and olive oil producer. Porter rattled off dozens of Baja wineries he liked, plus a long list of places to eat. For his money, Porter liked Corazon de Tierra, which had also just been named by Travel + Leisure magazine, Mexico edition, as the best restaurant in the nation.

“This place is supposed to be good?,” Mike asked more than once as we followed handpainted signs down dusty backroads for two kilometres in search of Corazon de Tierra.

Good? It was great. Restorative and transcendant. I won’t recount the set five-course, because it changes daily. And with the chefs bouncing out of the kitchen between each course to run into the garden, it’s not just seasonal, but changes hourly depending on the supply of arugula, chard, carrots, tomatoes, or peppers. Let’s just say that Corazon de Tierra had me at the first bite of soy-ginger-garlic-dressed mahi-mahi ceviche garnished with fresh mint, and the first sip of Chasselas del Mogor, a minerally white. Mogor Badán, as it turns out, is the winery a few kilometres down the highway. This pioneering winery only produces only one white from 35-year old chasselas vines and one red blend from 85-year-old cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot vines. Halfway through the courses, I switched to a rich, plummy tempranillo for the seared yellowtail tuna and the grilled ribeye courses. Vena Cava was made a few hundred steps away, at the restaurant’s own winery.

We left Corazon de Tierra rejuvenated. As the sun set over the valley, we settled into our boxy casita as plotting another day of food and drink.

Exterior of Corazon de Tierra Interior Corazon de Tierra Produce picked from the garden, soon to be our meal One of six courses, pan-seared yellowtail w/ charred eggplant pureePerfect grilled Sonoran ribeye and fresh garden veg with rounds of pickled watermelon (pink rounds on the steak)

Looking out over Guadalupe Valley from Hotel EndemicoThe private casitas at Hotel EndemicoThe balcony at our casita, Hotel Endemico Baja sky reflects off the infinity pool at Hotel Endemico

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After a breakfast around Hotel Endémico’s pool, we drove to Mogor Badán, hoping we could charm our way into the tasting room. I was desperate to try their red, but the winery was shut tight, except for a busy market garden doing brisk business from the winery’s on-site vegetable patch. Nearby Barón Balché, a winery with a reputation for big reds was also closed. In fact, we tried a half-dozen wineries only to realize that wine-touring mid-week in November is not ideal. Most wineries in the Baja Wine Route are small. Some have no tasting room, others are open limited hours on weekends, or by appointment only. But god bless the big wineries. L.A. Cetto is one of Mexico’s largest producers, and in keeping, they have a good tour, generous hours of operation, and a well-stocked tasting room and store. With an everything-under-the-sun selection, the Don Luis Reserve Concordia (a sixty-forty cabernet sauvignon-shiraz blend) was surprisingly well-made, especially at its $18 pricetag.

Rather than attempting to repeat the soaring experience of Corazon de Tierra, we opted instead for, Ultramarino, an oyster and tapas bar in downtown Ensenada on the advice of our helpful tourism-office guy again. Full disclosure, I strayed from the mission at hand, tempted by the buzz surrounding Baja’s craft beer scene. I happily nursed a pint of Cupacá Obscura, a dark, rich beer that went down very smoothly with Ultramarino’s ethereal tempura Baja oysters and smoky marlin tacos.

One of Santo Tomas' outbuildingsWinter vines at Santo Tomas winery Laura Zamora, winemaker, Santo Tomas, at the onsite wineshop and tasting roomThe next day, we knew we’d better keep making our way south, but figured we could squeeze in one more stop. This time, I called ahead and made an appointment at Santo Tomás, 30 minutes south of Ensenada and the oldest winery in the Baja, founded in 1888. Laura Zamora, Mexico’s first female winemaker, had been at the helm of this major Mexican winery since 2003, and had recently had some good showings at major European wine shows. She made time for a personalized tour through the vineyards in her pickup – some 16 different varietals from cabernet sauvignon and barbera (one of her personal favorites) to more obscure ones like French colombard and “Mission” grape, a European clone of Listan Prieto that has been thriving in the Baja hundreds of years after it died out in its native Spain.

The vines were anywhere between 25 and 75 years old. Hundred-year-old olive trees formed the windrows. In the tourist-friendly tasting room and wine shop, Zamora and I discussed everything from the winery’s efforts to educated Mexicans about food and wine pairings to the winery’s custom olive oil collection.

Yes, of course, we strongly considered ditching our plans of getting further south in the Baja. We’d barely scratched at the food and wine scene here. But the fishing and beaches of the South Baja beckoned. Given the hundreds of kilometres of driving in front of Mike and I that day, wasn’t about to taste my way through Santo Tomás’ cellar. I did one better. I loaded our truck down with full bottles – a silky barbera, a fruit-bomb of a merlot, a raisiny off-dry white made from 100 percent Mission grapes, and a solera-style dry sherry. Research, friends. It is called research.

Just another Baja beach, heading south of Ensenada

Resource Guide for Baja Wine Route

 Hotel Endémico, Tecate-Ensenada Highway 3 at km 75, Valle de Guadalupe, Baja California; from Canada, toll-free 1-800-337-4685; from Mexico 1-800-123-3454.

www.designhotels.com/endemico

 Corazón de Tierra Carretera Tecate-Ensenada, Highway 3 at Km 88; 011-52-646-156-8030. (Follow the road signs to Villa del Valle inn.) Open daily.

http://corazondetierra.com/

 Vena Cava, in-house winery at Villa del Valle Inn & Corazon de Tierra restaurant; Tecate-Ensenada, Highway 3 at km 88; 011-52-1-646-156-8007. Open year-round 11 am to 5 pm.

http://www.lavilladelvalle.com/en/index.html

 Mogor Badán winery; Tecate-Ensenada Highway 3 at km 86.5; 011-52-1-646-177-1484. By appointment only.

Barón Balché, El Porvenir, Valle de Guadalupe, Baja California.; 011-52-1-646-155-2141. Open to the public daily 10 am to 4 pm daily.

http://www.baronbalche.com

 L.A. Cetto, Carretera Highway 3 Tecate-Ensenada at km 73.5 km, Valle de Guadalupe, Baja California; 011-52-1-646-155-2179. Open daily 9:30 am to 3:30 pm.

http://www.cettowines.com

 Ultramarino Oyster Bar, Avenida Ruiz (bewteen Primera and Virgilio Uribe), Ensenada, Baja California.

(no phone, no website)

 Santo Tomás winery, Highway 1 south of Ensenada at km 47.5; 011-52-1-646-151-9333. Open daily 10 am to 5 pm. www.santo-tomas.com

 Two more websites that are highly useful:

Baja California Secretary of Tourism’s Wine Route page: http://www.discoverbajacalifornia.com/bajas-wine-country.php

 San Diego chef Jay Porter’s Blog “My Biased Guide to Mexican Wine Country” from January 3, 2012: http://jayporter.com/2012/01/valle-de-guadalupe-and-ensenada/

 

 

Thursday
Dec062012

Local Food gets High Fashion Treatment

Are we in the midst of a "social obsession" about food? Is that such a bad thing? Sometimes I despair at the hipster food / food porn movement. It somehow diminishes (or detracts) from some of the more dire and serious insjustices and imbalances in food distribution, dwindling food biodiversity, and general lack of culinary literacy in many communities. Then again, I like tracking food trends, looking at cheeky marketing campaigns, and enjoying a bit of subversion (case in point, Hermes' Pommes de Terre juxtaposition in this photo.)

via http://www.fastcodesign.com/1671353/6-kooky-concepts-for-foodies-of-the-future#5

A friend sent me this link today 6 Kooky Concepts for the Foodies of the Future from Fast Company Magazine. This in turn led me to an interesting website called Food Thinking.

Such is the internet.

Sunday
Aug262012

East London's Pothole Gardener

 

Image via http://media.photobucket.com/image/pothole/THEJJ76/fishing_in_pothole.jpg?o=16

Potholes!

They're hazards for cyclists, they shake your molars loose in the car, and generally are just something to complain about. Until now, I've never considered the up-side to these roadway menaces. Check out this website, from East London, the Pothole Gardener.

And here's his video, Holes of Happiness: